3D Printing Gundam Parts: A Complete Guide for Hobbyists & Designers

Ever wanted to build a Gundam model with unique, custom parts—like a one-of-a-kind sword or a modified armor plate—but struggled to find them in stores? 3D printing Gundam parts is the answer. This technology lets you design, print, and assemble personalized Gundam components, turning your creative ideas into tangible models. But it’s not without challenges: from design errors to print failures, many hobbyists hit roadblocks. This guide solves those problems, taking you step-by-step from 3D modeling to a finished, display-worthy Gundam part.

1. What Is 3D Printing Gundam Parts?

3D printing Gundam parts uses additive manufacturing (AM) to create components for Gundam models (known as Gunpla) layer by layer. Unlike mass-produced plastic parts from kits, 3D-printed parts can be fully customized—you can tweak sizes, add details (like engravings or extra armor), or even create entirely new pieces (e.g., a custom shield for a RX-78-2 Gundam).

Think of it like building a Lego set with bricks you designed yourself: instead of using pre-made pieces, you create exactly what you need. For example, if you want your Gundam to hold a unique weapon, you can 3D print a sword with intricate patterns that no commercial kit offers.

2. The 4-Step Workflow for 3D Printing Gundam Parts (Linear & Detailed)

Creating a 3D-printed Gundam part follows a clear, repeatable process. Skip a step, and you risk wasting time and material—so let’s break it down:

Step 1: Design the Gundam Part (Critical for Success)

The design stage is make-or-break. A flawed design will lead to a failed print, so follow these steps:

1. Choose 3D Modeling Software: Use tools tailored for detailed mechanical parts. The table below compares top options for Gundam design:

2. Design with Printability in Mind: Avoid features that 3D printers can’t handle, like:
   • Overhangs steeper than 45°: These will collapse without supports (e.g., a sword hilt with a 60° angle needs extra support material).
   • Tiny gaps (under 0.2mm): Printers can’t fill these—they’ll show up as holes in your part.
   • Thin walls (under 1mm): These will break easily. For Gundam armor, keep walls at 1.5–2mm thick.
3. Export the Model Correctly: Save your design as an STL or OBJ file—these formats store the part’s geometry and are compatible with all 3D printers. Double-check for errors (e.g., overlapping surfaces) using software like Meshlab.

Step 2: Prepare the Print (Avoid Common Mistakes)

Before hitting “print,” you need to prep the model to ensure it comes out smooth and functional:

1. Fix Design Errors: Use slicing software (e.g., Cura, PrusaSlicer) to check for issues like non-manifold geometry (parts of the model that aren’t connected properly). Most slicers have a “repair” button that fixes small errors.
2. Scale the Part: Gundam models come in different sizes (e.g., 1/144, 1/100, 1/60 scale). Use your slicer to adjust the part’s size—for a 1/100 scale Gundam, a 5cm-long sword in your design should stay 5cm (don’t scale it up or down unless you want a custom size).
3. Add Supports: For overhangs or tall parts (e.g., a Gundam’s leg), add support structures. Choose “tree supports” (they use less material) over “grid supports” (easier to remove but waste more plastic).
4. Set Slicer Settings: Use these optimal settings for Gundam parts (tested with PLA, the most popular material):

Step 3: 3D Print the Part (Monitor for Issues)

Now it’s time to print—stay nearby to fix problems early:

1. Prep the Build Platform: Clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) to remove dust. For PLA, add a thin layer of PVP glue or hairspray to boost adhesion (prevents the part from lifting).
2. Start the Print: Hit “print” and check the first layer—this is the most important layer. If it’s bumpy or has gaps, pause the print and adjust the nozzle height (use an A4 sheet to test the gap: it should feel slightly tight when pulled).
3. Monitor the Print: Check every 30 minutes for issues like:
   • Stringing: Thin plastic strands between parts (fix by lowering nozzle temp by 5°C).
   • Layer Separation: Layers peeling apart (fix by increasing infill or nozzle temp).
   • Warping: The part curling at the edges (fix by covering the printer with a plastic enclosure to keep the temperature stable).

Print time depends on size and complexity: a small sword (5cm long) takes 1–2 hours, while a large armor plate (10cm wide) takes 4–6 hours.

Step 4: Post-Process the Part (Make It Look Professional)

A 3D-printed part needs post-processing to look like a high-quality Gundam component:

1. Remove Supports: Use needle-nose pliers or a support removal tool to peel off supports. Be gentle—twisting too hard can break small details (e.g., a sword’s hilt).
2. Sand the Part: Use sandpaper (400 grit first, then 800 grit) to smooth rough edges and layer lines. For curved surfaces (e.g., a Gundam’s helmet), use a sanding sponge to avoid flat spots.
3. Prime and Paint: Apply a thin layer of primer (e.g., Mr. Surfacer 1000) to fill small scratches. Once dry, paint the part with Gundam markers or acrylic paint (e.g., metallic silver for armor, red for accents).
4. Assemble: Glue the 3D-printed part to your Gundam kit using plastic cement. For moving parts (e.g., joints), add a drop of lubricant to ensure smooth movement.

3. 3 Common Problems in 3D Printing Gundam Parts (and How to Fix Them)

Even experienced hobbyists run into issues. Here are the top problems and solutions:

4. Yigu Technology’s Perspective on 3D Printing Gundam Parts

At Yigu Technology, we’ve helped 200+ Gundam hobbyists and small designers optimize their 3D printing workflows. The biggest mistake we see? Skipping design validation—many users print parts without checking for overhangs or thin walls, wasting 5–10 hours of print time.

Our pro tip: Use our free “Gundam Print Checker” tool to scan STL files for printability issues (it flags thin walls and steep overhangs in 2 minutes). For clients printing large parts (e.g., 1/60 scale armor), we recommend our dual-nozzle printers—they print supports with a different material (easier to remove) while keeping the part smooth. As 3D printing materials evolve (e.g., flexible PLA for Gundam hands), we’ll keep updating our guides to help hobbyists create even more realistic, durable parts.

FAQ: Your Top 3D Printing Gundam Parts Questions Answered

Q1: What’s the best material for 3D printing Gundam parts?

A1: PLA is the best for beginners—it’s cheap ($20–$30 per spool), easy to print, and comes in colors like red, blue, and metallic silver. For more durable parts (e.g., joints), use PETG (slightly trickier to print but 2x stronger than PLA). Avoid ABS—it warps easily and needs a heated enclosure.

Q2: Can I 3D print copyrighted Gundam parts (e.g., a exact copy of a Bandai kit part)?

A2: No—Bandai (the main Gundam kit maker) holds copyrights for their designs. You can print parts for personal use (e.g., a replacement for a lost kit part), but you cannot sell or distribute copies of copyrighted parts. Stick to custom designs (e.g., a unique weapon) to avoid legal issues.

Q3: How long does it take to learn to design 3D-printed Gundam parts?

A3: With Blender (free software) and Gundam-specific tutorials (YouTube has hundreds), most hobbyists learn the basics in 2–3 weeks. You’ll be able to design simple parts (e.g., a shield) in a month, and complex parts (e.g., a detailed sword) in 2–3 months. Practice with small parts first—don’t jump into a full Gundam armor set!