Have you ever stared at a 3D printer, wondering how it turns a digital file into a physical object? Or struggled with failed prints—like warped parts or missing layers—and didn’t know why? Понимание как 3D printers print is the key to fixing these issues. Это руководство разрушает 6 core steps of the 3D процесс печати, solves common problems, and gives you practical tips to get perfect prints every time, whether you’re a beginner or a hobbyist.
1. Подготовка файла: The Blueprint for Your Print
Before a 3D printer can start, it needs a clear “blueprint”—a 3D model file. Skipping this step or using a low-quality file is like trying to build a house without a floor plan: you’ll end up with a mess.
What You Need to Do
- Create or Find a 3D Model: Использовать CAD Software (НАПРИМЕР., Tinkercad for beginners, Слияние 360 for advanced users) to design your own model. If you’re new, download ready-to-use models from sites like Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory—just make sure the file is in Формат STL (Стандарт для 3D -печати).
- Check for File Errors: Even a small flaw in the STL file (like a missing face or overlapping edges) can ruin your print. Use tools like Meshmixer or Cura’s “Fix Model” feature to repair errors. Например, a cup model with a tiny gap will leak plastic during printing—fixing the gap ensures a sealed final part.
Common Problem Solved: “Why does my printer say ‘invalid file’?”
Chances are your file isn’t in STL format or has errors. Follow this quick fix:
- Convert non-STL files (НАПРИМЕР., Obj, ШАГ) to STL using MeshLab.
- Run a “repair” in your slicer software (НАПРИМЕР., Уход) to fix gaps or overlaps.
2. Layered Slicing: Turning 3D into 2D Instructions
3D printers can’t print an object all at once—they build it layer by layer. Slicing software takes your 3D STL file and cuts it into hundreds (or thousands) of thin 2D layers, then generates the code the printer understands.
How Slicing Works
- Choose a Slicer: Popular free options include Cura (работает с большинством принтеров) and PrusaSlicer (great for Prusa printers). These tools let you adjust key settings for success.
- Adjust Critical Slicing Settings:
- Высота слоя: The thickness of each layer (0.2mm is ideal for most prints—thinner layers = smoother surface, thicker layers = faster print).
- Наполнять: The material inside the part (20% Для декоративных деталей, 50%–100% for strong functional parts like a tool handle).
- Структуры поддержки: Turn on for overhangs (parts that stick out more than 45°—e.g., a bird’s wing). Supports hold the plastic up so it doesn’t sag.
The table below compares slicing settings for a decorative figurine vs. a functional phone case:
Параметр | Decorative Figurine (Плата) | Functional Phone Case (Петг) |
Высота слоя | 0.2мм (гладкая поверхность) | 0.25мм (faster print, still strong) |
Наполнять | 10%–20% (легкий вес, saves material) | 50% (strong enough to protect the phone) |
Поддержка | На (for overhanging arms/legs) | Off (no overhangs, Сохраняет после обработки) |
Скорость печати | 50мм/с (slower for detail) | 60мм/с (Быстрее, still durable) |
3. Выбор материала: Pick the Right “Ink” for Your Print
3D printers use different materials (like plastic filaments or resin) depending on the printer type and project needs. Choosing the wrong material is like using watercolor paint on metal—your print won’t work as intended.
Common Materials and Their Uses
- Плата (Полилактановая кислота): The best for beginners. It’s biodegradable, легко печатать (melts at 190–220°C), and has low odor. Use it for decor, прототипы, or plant pots.
- АБС (Акрилонитрил бутадиен стирол): Stronger and heat-resistant (melts at 230–250°C) but needs a heated enclosure to avoid warping. Great for functional parts like toy car chassis.
- Смола: Used in resin printers for ultra-detailed parts (НАПРИМЕР., miniatures or jewelry). It cures with UV light and creates smooth, precise prints—but needs safety gear (перчатки, mask) чтобы справиться.
- Metal Powder: For industrial printers (НАПРИМЕР., SLM machines). Used for high-strength parts like aerospace components or medical implants.
Пример: A user wants to print a water cup. PLA is a bad choice (it absorbs water over time), so they pick PETG—It’s waterproof, легко печатать, and durable enough for daily use.
4. Настройка принтера: Get Ready to Print
Even a perfect file and material won’t save you if your printer isn’t set up right. This step ensures everything is calibrated and ready to go.
Key Setup Tasks
- Level the Build Plate: The plate (where the print sticks) must be perfectly flat. If it’s uneven, the first layer will be too thin in some spots and too thick in others. Use your printer’s “auto-level” feature (Если у него есть один) or manually adjust the knobs until a piece of paper slides under the nozzle with slight resistance.
- Prime the Nozzle: Перед началом, push a little filament through the nozzle to ensure it’s flowing smoothly. This prevents “stringing” (thin plastic strands between parts of the print).
- Heat the Nozzle and Build Plate: Set the nozzle temperature to match your material (НАПРИМЕР., 200° C для PLA) and the build plate to 60°C (для PLA) to help the print stick.
Common Problem Solved: “Why does my print keep falling off the build plate?”
Your plate is either unlevel or not heated enough. Fix it by:
- Re-leveling the plate (Используйте бумажный тест).
- Increasing the build plate temperature by 5–10°C (НАПРИМЕР., from 60°C to 65°C for PLA).
- Adding a layer of glue stick or hairspray to the plate for extra adhesion.
5. Начать печать: Let the Printer Do Its Work
Once setup is done, hit “print”—the printer will now build your object layer by layer. But don’t walk away entirely—monitoring the first few layers saves you from wasted time and material.
What Happens During Printing
- Первый слой: Самый важный шаг. Сопло движется вперед и назад, laying down a thin layer of filament on the build plate. If the first layer is smooth and sticks well, your print is off to a good start.
- Слово-слойное здание: Для принтеров FDM (самый распространенный тип), the nozzle heats the filament, extrudes it, and moves in the pattern from the slicer. Each layer cools slightly before the next one is added, building up the 3D shape.
- Поддержка удаления (Если используется): If your print has supports, the printer will build them alongside the part. You’ll remove them after printing with pliers or a support removal tool.
Для чаевого: Stay nearby for the first 10–15 minutes. If you see the filament not sticking, the nozzle clogging, or the print warping, stop the printer and fix the issue—don’t wait until it’s too late!
6. Пост-обработка & Качественная проверка: Polish and Check Your Print
Your print isn’t done once the printer stops. Post-processing improves its appearance and functionality, while inspection ensures it meets your needs.
Поступ-обработки шагов
- Удалить опоры: Gently pull or cut away supports with pliers. For resin prints, wash the part in isopropyl alcohol to remove excess resin, then cure it with UV light.
- Отшлифовать поверхность: Используйте наждачную бумагу (Начните с 200 зернистый, затем 400 зернистый) для сглаживания грубых краев или линий слоя. For PLA prints, you can also use a heat gun (on low) to melt small imperfections.
- Color or Paint: Add paint, dye, or stickers to customize your print. Например, a PLA figurine can be painted with acrylic paint to make details pop.
Качественная проверка
- Check for Flaws: Look for gaps, строка, or warping. A functional part (как шарнир) should move smoothly—if it’s stiff, sand the edges slightly.
- Тестирование функциональности: For a phone case, put your phone in it to ensure it fits. For a cup, fill it with water to check for leaks.
Перспектива Yigu Technology
В Yigu Technology, we believe understanding how 3D printers print is essential for every user—beginners and experts alike. Many clients struggle with failed prints due to small setup mistakes or wrong material choices. Our solutions include easy-to-use slicing presets (matched to materials like PLA or PETG) and a printer calibration tool that guides users through leveling and nozzle priming. We also offer sample files and tutorials to simplify the process. As 3D tech evolves, we’ll integrate more automation (НАПРИМЕР., auto-material detection) to make printing even easier, helping users turn their ideas into perfect physical parts.
Часто задаваемые вопросы
1. Why is my print covered in thin plastic strands (строка)?
Stringing happens when filament oozes from the nozzle between print moves. Fix it by:
- Lowering the nozzle temperature by 5–10°C.
- Enabling “retraction” in your slicer (set to 2–4mm for PLA).
- Increasing the travel speed (so the nozzle moves faster between parts).
2. How long does a 3D print take?
It depends on the size, высота слоя, и скорость. A small PLA figurine (5CM высокий) может занять 1-2 часа. A large functional part (20CM высокий) could take 8–12 hours. Use your slicer’s “estimated time” feature to plan ahead.
3. Can I pause a 3D print and resume it later?
Yes—most printers have a pause button. Just make sure:
- The build plate stays heated (so the print doesn’t cool and detach).
- You don’t move the printer or plate while paused.
- Resume within a few hours (longer pauses can cause the nozzle to clog).