Ever spent hours 3D printing a model, only to find it’s bumpy, слабый, or won’t stick to the platform? Скорее всего, the issue lies in your 3D printing parameters. These settings—like layer thickness, время контакта, and lifting distance—are the “hidden controls” that make or break your print. Независимо от того, новичок ли вы, борющийся с адгезией первого слоя, или профессионал, гоняющийся за более гладкими поверхностями., это руководство поможет вам освоить каждый параметр и устранить распространенные проблемы с печатью..
1. Каковы параметры 3D-печати, и почему они имеют значение?
3D printing parameters are the adjustable settings that control how a 3D printer builds a model layer by layer. Think of them as the “recipe” for your print: just like too much sugar ruins a cake, the wrong parameter values can ruin a model.
The key truth? These parameters don’t work alone—they’re interconnected. Например:
- Изготовление толщина слоя тоньше (for better detail) will increase время печати (since you need more layers).
- Increasing время контакта (to cure resin fully) might cause over-curing (making edges blurry) unless you adjust the light-out delay.
Get the balance right, and you’ll get strong, гладкий, accurate prints. Get it wrong, and you’ll waste time, нити, or resin.
2. А 6 Основные параметры 3D-печати: Что они делают & Как их настроить
Below is a breakdown of the most critical parameters—with clear explanations, ideal ranges, и реальные примеры. We’ll focus on resin 3D printing (since parameters like exposure time are unique to it) and note key tips for filament printers too.
| Параметр | Определение | Key Impact | Ideal Range (Смоловые принтеры) | Example Scenario |
| Толщина слоя | The height of each printed layer (Ось Z.) | – Thinner = smoother surface + more detail- Thicker = faster print + stronger layer bonds | 0.02мм - 0,1 мм | Printing a tiny figurine? Use 0.02mm for fine facial details. Printing a sturdy tool? Use 0.1mm to save time. |
| Number of Bottom Layers | Layers that stick directly to the printer platform | More layers = better adhesion (предотвращает деформацию)Fewer layers = faster start but higher risk of detachment | 3 – 10 слои | Printing a large model (НАПРИМЕР., a 20cm vase)? Use 8–10 bottom layers to keep it anchored. Printing a small keychain? 3–5 layers are enough. |
| Время контакта | How long the light source (НАПРИМЕР., Ультрафиолетовый свет) hits resin per layer | Longer = fully cured resin (stronger parts)Shorter = faster print but weak/uncured layers | 2s – 8s (normal layers)20s – 60s (bottom layers) | Using thick resin (НАПРИМЕР., 4000cP viscosity)? Extend exposure to 6–8s. Using thin resin (НАПРИМЕР., 2000сн)? 2–4s works. |
| Light-Out Delay | Waiting time after a layer prints before the light turns off | Prevents over-curing (blurry edges) by letting resin settle | 0.5s – 2s | Printing a model with sharp edges (НАПРИМЕР., передача)? Use 1–2s delay to keep edges crisp. |
| Lifting Distance | How high the platform rises after each layer | More distance = easier layer separation (avoids tearing)Less distance = faster print but higher tear risk | 5мм - 15 мм | Using a flexible resin? 5–8mm is enough (resin bends easily). Using rigid resin? 10–15mm helps separate layers cleanly. |
| Return Speed | How fast the platform/movement system moves when not printing | Faster = shorter print timeSlower = more stable (reduces vibrations) | 50mm/min – 200mm/min | Printing a delicate model (НАПРИМЕР., a thin plant stem)? Slow to 50–100mm/min to avoid shaking. Printing a solid block? 150–200mm/min saves time. |
3. Как устранить распространенные проблемы с настройкой параметров
The best way to learn parameters is by fixing problems. Let’s walk through 3 common print failures and how to solve them with parameter tweaks—using a causal chain (problem → root cause → solution).
3.1 Проблема: Печать не прилипает к платформе
- Почему это происходит: Not enough bottom layers or bottom-layer exposure time. The first layers don’t cure strongly enough to attach to the platform.
- Решение:
- Increase the number of bottom layers (НАПРИМЕР., от 3 к 6).
- Extend bottom-layer exposure time (НАПРИМЕР., from 20s to 40s).
- Пример: A user tried printing a resin cup but it peeled off mid-print. After upping bottom layers to 8 and exposure to 50s, the cup stuck perfectly.
3.2 Проблема: Печать неровная, Неровные поверхности
- Почему это происходит: Layer thickness is too thick, or exposure time is inconsistent. Thick layers create visible “шаги” на изогнутых поверхностях.
- Решение:
- Уменьшать толщина слоя (НАПРИМЕР., from 0.1mm to 0.05mm).
- Ensure время контакта is the same for all normal layers (avoid random adjustments mid-print).
- Пример: A hobbyist printed a resin mask with bumpy cheeks. Switching to 0.03mm layers made the surface smooth enough for painting.
3.3 Проблема: Смола сочится или создает тягучие слои
- Почему это происходит: Light-out delay is too short. Resin doesn’t settle before the next layer prints, causing excess resin to spread.
- Решение: Увеличивать light-out delay (НАПРИМЕР., from 0.5s to 1.5s).
- Пример: A designer’s resin jewelry had stringy connections between parts. Adding 1s of light-out delay stopped the oozing.
4. Перспектива Yigu Technology
В Yigu Technology, Мы помогли 1000+ users optimize 3D printing parameters—from hobbyists to industrial teams. Our key advice? Начните с “default” parameters for your printer/resin, then tweak one at a time. Don’t change 3 parameters at once—you’ll never know which fixed the problem. Для принтеров смолы, Мы распределяем приоритеты bottom-layer exposure time (it’s the #1 cause of adhesion issues) и толщина слоя (Уравновешивает детали и скорость). We also see a trend: new printers will soon have AI that auto-adjusts parameters—but until then, mastering these basics is the best way to get perfect prints.
5. Часто задаваемые вопросы: Общие вопросы о параметрах 3D-печати
1 квартал: Do I need different parameters for different resins (НАПРИМЕР., PLA vs. ABS in filament printers)?
Да! Например, ABS filament needs higher print temperatures (so adjust bed temperature—a key filament parameter) чем PLA. For resin, rigid resin needs longer exposure than flexible resin. Always check the manufacturer’s recommended parameters for your material.
2 квартал: How do I know if my layer thickness is too thin?
If your print takes 2x longer than expected but has no visible detail improvement, it’s too thin. For most models, 0.05mm is a sweet spot—balances smoothness and speed. If you’re printing a model with tiny details (НАПРИМЕР., a 5mm figurine), 0.02mm is worth the extra time.
Q3: Can I use the same parameters for all my models?
No—size and complexity matter. Большой, solid model needs more bottom layers (для адгезии) than a small, hollow one. A model with sharp edges needs more light-out delay than a model with soft curves. Always adjust parameters based on the model’s needs, not just a “Один размер-все” set.