Polyethylene terephthalate (ANIMAL DE COMPAGNIE) has become a star material in 3D Impression, Merci à son excellent mechanical properties, strong heat resistance, and versatility across industries like aerospace, automobile, et électronique. But printing with PET isn’t as simple as loading filament and pressing “start”—its unique traits (like sensitivity to moisture and specific temperature needs) require careful handling. To help you avoid common pitfalls (Par exemple, parties déformées, couches faibles, or failed prints), we’ve compiled the most critical precautions for 3D printing PET materials. Each tip addresses a key challenge and ensures your prints meet the high-precision, high-quality standards PET is known for.
1. Dry PET Filament Thoroughly Before Printing
PET filament absorbs moisture from the air quickly—and wet filament is the #1 cause of print failures. Moisture turns to steam during printing, creating bubbles in the extruded material. This leads to weak layer adhesion, surfaces rugueuses, and even nozzle clogs.
How to Dry PET Properly:
| Drying Method | Température | Time Required | Astuce |
| Sèche-linge | 60–70 ° C | 4–6 heures | Use a dryer with a sealed chamber to prevent reabsorption |
| Four (Low Heat) | 50–60 ° C | 6–8 heures | Place filament on a baking sheet; Évitez la surchauffe (PET melts at ~250°C) |
Par exemple, a manufacturer once skipped drying and printed a PET automotive component—bubbles formed in the part, making it too weak to pass strength tests. After drying the filament for 5 hours at 65°C, the next print was smooth and durable. Always store unused PET filament in an airtight container with desiccants to keep it dry.
2. Calibrate Nozzle Temperature and Bed Temperature Precisely
PET’s melting point (230–250 ° C) and bed adhesion needs are stricter than common materials like PLA. Using the wrong temperatures leads to two major issues: sous-extrusion (if too cold) or stringing (if too hot), plus warping (if the bed is too cool).
Ideal Temperature Ranges for PET:
- Température de la buse: 230–250 ° C (start at 240°C for most printers; adjust ±10°C based on filament brand).
- Température du lit: 70–80 ° C (use a heated bed to prevent warping—PET shrinks as it cools, so a warm bed keeps the bottom layer anchored).
Pourquoi est-ce important? A designer printing a PET electronics shell used a nozzle temp of 220°C— the filament didn’t melt fully, Laissant des lacunes entre les couches. Cranking it to 240°C fixed the issue, creating a solid, gap-free part. Always run a temperature test print (Par exemple, un petit cube) to find the sweet spot for your filament.
3. Ensure Proper Nozzle and Extruder Maintenance
PET is slightly abrasive, so it can wear down nozzles over time—especially if you use brass nozzles (le type le plus courant). A worn nozzle leads to inconsistent extrusion, ruining print precision.
Nozzle & Extruder Care Checklist:
- Use the Right Nozzle Material: Switch to hardened steel or ruby nozzles for long-term PET printing (they resist wear 5–10x better than brass).
- Nettoyez régulièrement la buse: After each print, heat the nozzle to 240°C and use a brass brush to remove leftover PET residue. For clogs, use a needle to clear the nozzle.
- Lubricate the Extruder Gear: PET filament is stiffer than PLA—lubricate the extruder gear every 20–30 prints to ensure smooth feeding.
A 3D printing shop once used a brass nozzle for 50 PET prints—the nozzle diameter widened from 0.4mm to 0.45mm, making parts larger than designed. Replacing it with a hardened steel nozzle solved the problem.
4. Optimize Layer Adhesion to Avoid Brittle Parts
PET’s layer adhesion depends on two factors: nozzle temperature and print speed. If layers don’t bond well, parts break easily—critical for functional components like brackets or gears.
How to Boost Layer Adhesion:
- Slow Down Print Speed: Keep speed at 40–60mm/s (slower than PLA’s 60–80mm/s). This gives each layer time to melt and bond with the one below.
- Increase Nozzle Temperature by 5–10°C: A slightly hotter nozzle ensures the filament flows into the previous layer.
- Use a Fan Sparingly: PET cools slowly—turn the part cooling fan to 0–20% (high fan speed causes layers to cool too fast, weakening bonds).
A client printing PET aerospace brackets noticed parts snapped under light pressure. Slowing the speed from 70mm/s to 50mm/s and raising the nozzle temp by 10°C made the brackets 30% plus fort, passing the industry’s strength tests.
5. Prevent Warping with Bed Adhesion Solutions
Gauchissement (when the edges of the print lift off the bed) is common with PET because it shrinks as it cools. This ruins the print’s shape and precision—especially for large parts like automotive panels.
Top Bed Adhesion Tips for PET:
| Solution | Comment ça marche | Mieux pour |
| Painter’s Tape | Creates a rough surface for PET to grip | Petites pièces (Par exemple, electronics buttons) |
| Glue Stick (PVA) | The glue melts slightly, bonding PET to the bed | Medium parts (Par exemple, composants jouets) |
| Build Plate Adhesives (Par exemple, Machooo) | Form a strong bond that releases when cooled | Grosses pièces (Par exemple, supports aérospatiaux) |
A designer printing a 30cm-wide PET smart home panel struggled with warping— the edges lifted by 2mm. Applying a thin layer of Magigoo to the bed kept the panel flat, with zero warping.
6. Choose the Right Print Settings for Precision
PET is used for high-precision parts (Par exemple, composants de dispositifs médicaux), so settings like layer height and infill matter. The wrong settings lead to parts that don’t fit or perform as designed.
Precision-Boosting Settings:
- Hauteur de couche: Use 0.15–0.2mm (Couches plus minces pour les surfaces plus lisses; thicker layers for strength).
- Densité de remplissage: 20–50% for non-structural parts (Par exemple, packaging prototypes); 50–80% for structural parts (Par exemple, supports automobiles).
- Rétraction: Set to 2–3mm (prevents stringing without causing under-extrusion).
A medical tech company printing PET surgical tool handles needed 0.1mm precision. Using a 0.15mm layer height and 3mm retraction gave the handles a smooth surface and exact dimensions—matching the CAD design perfectly.
7. Handle Post-Treatment Safely and Effectively
Post-traitement (refroidissement, affûtage, polissage) improves PET prints’ appearance and performance—but done wrong, it can damage parts or cause safety risks.
Post-Treatment Precautions:
- Cool Prints Slowly: Let prints cool on the bed for 30–60 minutes after printing. Refroidissement rapide (Par exemple, using a fan) causes cracking.
- Use Safe Sanding Tools: Sand with 200–400 grit sandpaper (démarrer grossier, finish fine) Pour éviter les rayures. Wear a dust mask—PET dust is not safe to inhale.
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Don’t use acetone (PET is resistant to it, so it won’t smooth the surface). Utiliser de l'alcool isopropylique (70%) to clean prints instead.
A hobbyist once sanded a PET action figure with 80-grit sandpaper— it left deep scratches. Switching to 200-grit and sanding in circular motions fixed the issue, giving the figure a smooth finish.
8. Conduct Thorough Quality Inspections
PET prints are often used for functional parts, so quality checks are non-negotiable. Skipping inspections leads to defective parts that fail in real-world use.
Must-Do Quality Tests:
| Type de test | Comment jouer | Pass/Fail Criterion |
| Inspection dimensionnelle | Use calipers or a 3D scanner to measure key dimensions | Must match CAD design within ±0.1mm |
| Strength Testing | Appliquer une pression (Par exemple, with a tensile tester) to the part | Should withstand the required load (Par exemple, 50N for brackets) |
| Test de résistance à la chaleur | Place the part in an oven at 60–80°C for 1 heure | Pas de déformation, fusion, ou déformation |
An automotive supplier once skipped heat testing on a PET engine cover— the cover warped when exposed to the engine’s heat. After retesting and adjusting the print settings (higher infill density), the cover passed the heat test.
9. Store Finished PET Prints Correctly
Even after printing, PET parts are sensitive to extreme temperatures and moisture. Poor storage ruins their shape and performance over time.
Meilleures pratiques de stockage:
- Keep Away from Heat: Store prints in a room with temperatures 15–25°C (avoid near radiators or windows with direct sunlight).
- Avoid Moisture: Pour un stockage à long terme (3+ mois), place prints in airtight containers with desiccants.
- Don’t Stack Heavy Items: PET parts can deform under weight—store them on shelves without stacking.
A warehouse stored PET electronics casings near a heater— the casings warped, making them unusable. Moving them to a cool, dry shelf fixed the problem.
10. Follow Safety Guidelines for Handling PET
While PET is safe for 3D printing, improper handling (Par exemple, overheating or inhaling fumes) poses risks. Always prioritize safety to protect yourself and your equipment.
Safety Checklist:
- Ventilate the Printing Area: PET emits minor fumes when melted—use a fume extractor or print near an open window.
- Wear Protective Gear: Use heat-resistant gloves when removing hot prints from the bed (the bed stays at 70–80°C after printing).
- Avoid Overheating Filament: Don’t heat the nozzle above 260°C—overheating causes PET to degrade, libérer des fumées nocives.
A home printer once printed PET in a closed room without ventilation— they experienced mild headaches. Installing a fume extractor solved the issue.
Perspective de la technologie Yigu
À la technologie Yigu, Nous avons aidé 150+ clients master 3D printing PET materials. The top issues we see are moisture-related failures and warping—solving these with proper drying and bed adhesion cuts print failure rates by 60%. We recommend pairing PET with hardened steel nozzles and Magigoo for large parts, and always testing prints for strength and heat resistance. PET’s versatility makes it a game-changer for industries needing durable, precise parts—with the right precautions, it delivers consistent, Résultats de haute qualité.
FAQ
- Can I use PET filament in a regular FDM 3D printer?
Oui! Most FDM printers work with PET, but you’ll need a heated bed (70–80 ° C) and a nozzle that can reach 230–250°C. Upgrade to a hardened steel nozzle for long-term use.
- How do I fix stringing in PET prints?
Corde (thin plastic threads between parts) comes from too much heat or retraction. Lower the nozzle temp by 5–10°C and increase retraction to 2.5–3mm.
- Is PET better than PLA for functional parts?
Oui! PET is stronger, plus résistant à la chaleur (PLA melts at 60–70°C; PET resists up to 80°C), and more flexible—ideal for parts that need to withstand use (Par exemple, supports, engrenages). PLA is better for decorative parts.