Avez-vous déjà regardé une imprimante 3D, je me demande comment il transforme un fichier numérique en un objet physique? Ou j'ai eu du mal à résoudre des problèmes d'impression, comme des pièces déformées ou des couches manquantes, sans savoir pourquoi.? Comprendre comment 3D printers print is the key to fixing these issues. Ce guide détaille les 6 core steps of the 3D printing process, résout les problèmes courants, and gives you practical tips to get perfect prints every time, whether you’re a beginner or a hobbyist.
1. Préparation du fichier: The Blueprint for Your Print
Before a 3D printer can start, it needs a clear “blueprint”—a 3D model file. Skipping this step or using a low-quality file is like trying to build a house without a floor plan: you’ll end up with a mess.
What You Need to Do
- Create or Find a 3D Model: Utiliser Logiciel de CAO (par ex., Tinkercad for beginners, Fusion 360 for advanced users) to design your own model. If you’re new, download ready-to-use models from sites like Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory—just make sure the file is in Format STL (the standard for 3D printing).
- Check for File Errors: Even a small flaw in the STL file (like a missing face or overlapping edges) can ruin your print. Use tools like Meshmixer or Cura’s “Fix Model” feature to repair errors. Par exemple, a cup model with a tiny gap will leak plastic during printing—fixing the gap ensures a sealed final part.
Common Problem Solved: “Why does my printer say ‘invalid file’?»
Chances are your file isn’t in STL format or has errors. Follow this quick fix:
- Convert non-STL files (par ex., OBJ, ÉTAPE) to STL using MeshLab.
- Run a “repair” in your slicer software (par ex., Traitement) to fix gaps or overlaps.
2. Layered Slicing: Turning 3D into 2D Instructions
3D printers can’t print an object all at once—they build it layer by layer. Slicing software takes your 3D STL file and cuts it into hundreds (or thousands) of thin 2D layers, then generates the code the printer understands.
How Slicing Works
- Choose a Slicer: Popular free options include Cura (works with most printers) and PrusaSlicer (great for Prusa printers). These tools let you adjust key settings for success.
- Adjust Critical Slicing Settings:
- Hauteur de couche: The thickness of each layer (0.2mm is ideal for most prints—thinner layers = smoother surface, thicker layers = faster print).
- Infill: The material inside the part (20% pour pièces décoratives, 50%–100% for strong functional parts like a tool handle).
- Structures de soutien: Turn on for overhangs (parts that stick out more than 45°—e.g., a bird’s wing). Supports hold the plastic up so it doesn’t sag.
The table below compares slicing settings for a decorative figurine vs. a functional phone case:
| Setting | Decorative Figurine (PLA) | Functional Phone Case (PETG) |
| Hauteur de couche | 0.2mm (surface lisse) | 0.25mm (faster print, still strong) |
| Infill | 10%–20% (léger, saves material) | 50% (strong enough to protect the phone) |
| Prise en charge | On (for overhanging arms/legs) | Off (no overhangs, saves post-processing) |
| Vitesse d'impression | 50mm/s (slower for detail) | 60mm/s (plus rapide, still durable) |
3. Sélection des matériaux: Pick the Right “Ink” for Your Print
3D printers use different materials (like plastic filaments or resin) depending on the printer type and project needs. Choosing the wrong material is like using watercolor paint on metal—your print won’t work as intended.
Common Materials and Their Uses
- PLA (Acide polylactique): The best for beginners. It’s biodegradable, facile à imprimer (melts at 190–220°C), and has low odor. Use it for decor, prototypes, or plant pots.
- ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiène Styrène): Stronger and heat-resistant (melts at 230–250°C) but needs a heated enclosure to avoid warping. Great for functional parts like toy car chassis.
- Résine: Used in resin printers for ultra-detailed parts (par ex., miniatures or jewelry). It cures with UV light and creates smooth, precise prints—but needs safety gear (gloves, mask) to handle.
- Metal Powder: For industrial printers (par ex., SLM machines). Used for high-strength parts like aerospace components or medical implants.
Exemple: A user wants to print a water cup. PLA is a bad choice (it absorbs water over time), so they pick PETG—It’s waterproof, facile à imprimer, and durable enough for daily use.
4. Configuration de l'imprimante: Get Ready to Print
Even a perfect file and material won’t save you if your printer isn’t set up right. This step ensures everything is calibrated and ready to go.
Key Setup Tasks
- Level the Build Plate: The plate (where the print sticks) must be perfectly flat. If it’s uneven, the first layer will be too thin in some spots and too thick in others. Use your printer’s “auto-level” feature (if it has one) or manually adjust the knobs until a piece of paper slides under the nozzle with slight resistance.
- Prime the Nozzle: Avant de commencer, push a little filament through the nozzle to ensure it’s flowing smoothly. This prevents “stringing” (thin plastic strands between parts of the print).
- Heat the Nozzle and Build Plate: Set the nozzle temperature to match your material (par ex., 200°C for PLA) and the build plate to 60°C (pour le PLA) to help the print stick.
Common Problem Solved: “Why does my print keep falling off the build plate?»
Your plate is either unlevel or not heated enough. Fix it by:
- Re-leveling the plate (use the paper test).
- Increasing the build plate temperature by 5–10°C (par ex., from 60°C to 65°C for PLA).
- Adding a layer of glue stick or hairspray to the plate for extra adhesion.
5. Start Printing: Let the Printer Do Its Work
Once setup is done, hit “print”—the printer will now build your object layer by layer. But don’t walk away entirely—monitoring the first few layers saves you from wasted time and material.
What Happens During Printing
- Première couche: The most critical step. The nozzle moves back and forth, laying down a thin layer of filament on the build plate. If the first layer is smooth and sticks well, your print is off to a good start.
- Layer-by-Layer Building: For FDM printers (the most common type), the nozzle heats the filament, extrudes it, and moves in the pattern from the slicer. Each layer cools slightly before the next one is added, building up the 3D shape.
- Suppression du support (if used): If your print has supports, the printer will build them alongside the part. You’ll remove them after printing with pliers or a support removal tool.
Pro Tip: Stay nearby for the first 10–15 minutes. If you see the filament not sticking, the nozzle clogging, or the print warping, stop the printer and fix the issue—don’t wait until it’s too late!
6. Post-traitement & Contrôle qualité: Polish and Check Your Print
Your print isn’t done once the printer stops. Post-processing improves its appearance and functionality, while inspection ensures it meets your needs.
Étapes de post-traitement
- Remove Supports: Gently pull or cut away supports with pliers. For resin prints, wash the part in isopropyl alcohol to remove excess resin, then cure it with UV light.
- Sand the Surface: Utilisez du papier de verre (commencer par 200 grincer, alors 400 grincer) pour lisser les bords rugueux ou les lignes de calque. For PLA prints, you can also use a heat gun (on low) to melt small imperfections.
- Color or Paint: Add paint, dye, or stickers to customize your print. Par exemple, a PLA figurine can be painted with acrylic paint to make details pop.
Contrôle qualité
- Check for Flaws: Look for gaps, cordage, ou une déformation. A functional part (like a hinge) should move smoothly—if it’s stiff, sand the edges slightly.
- Test Functionality: For a phone case, put your phone in it to ensure it fits. For a cup, fill it with water to check for leaks.
Yigu Technology’s Perspective
Chez Yigu Technologie, we believe understanding how 3D printers print is essential for every user—beginners and experts alike. Many clients struggle with failed prints due to small setup mistakes or wrong material choices. Our solutions include easy-to-use slicing presets (matched to materials like PLA or PETG) and a printer calibration tool that guides users through leveling and nozzle priming. We also offer sample files and tutorials to simplify the process. As 3D tech evolves, we’ll integrate more automation (par ex., auto-material detection) to make printing even easier, helping users turn their ideas into perfect physical parts.
FAQ
1. Why is my print covered in thin plastic strands (cordage)?
Stringing happens when filament oozes from the nozzle between print moves. Fix it by:
- Lowering the nozzle temperature by 5–10°C.
- Enabling “retraction” in your slicer (set to 2–4mm for PLA).
- Increasing the travel speed (so the nozzle moves faster between parts).
2. How long does a 3D print take?
It depends on the size, hauteur de couche, et la vitesse. A small PLA figurine (5cm de hauteur) might take 1–2 hours. A large functional part (20cm de hauteur) could take 8–12 hours. Use your slicer’s “estimated time” feature to plan ahead.
3. Can I pause a 3D print and resume it later?
Yes—most printers have a pause button. Just make sure:
- The build plate stays heated (so the print doesn’t cool and detach).
- You don’t move the printer or plate while paused.
- Resume within a few hours (longer pauses can cause the nozzle to clog).