Nothing is more frustrating than finishing a 3Impression D—only to find its surface bumpy, en couches, or uneven. Que vous fassiez un prototype, a decorative piece, or a functional part, smoothness matters for both look and performance. La bonne nouvelle? Most surface issues aren’t hard to fix. Cet article se décompose 3 core solutions (sélection des matériaux, Paramètres d'impression, post-traitement) to turn rough prints into smooth, Résultats professionnels.
1. Choose Materials That Boost Surface Smoothness
The right filament is the foundation of a smooth print. Using materials ill-suited for your project often leads to grainy or uneven surfaces. Vous trouverez ci-dessous une comparaison de 3 common filaments—focused on their surface quality and ease of use:
| Type de filament | Lisse de surface (1=Rough, 5=Smooth) | Mieux pour | Key Tip for Smoothness |
| PLA | 3–4 | Prototypes, jouets, pièces décoratives | Use high-quality PLA (avoid cheap brands) to reduce stringing. |
| Abs | 4–5 | Parties fonctionnelles (Par exemple, caisses téléphoniques) | Print in an enclosed printer to prevent warping (warping causes uneven surfaces). |
| Pivot | 4–5 | Durable parts (Par exemple, bouteilles d'eau) | Dry the filament first—moisture causes bubbles on the surface. |
Common Question: Why does my PLA print still look rough?
PLA is easy to print, but low-quality PLA (sous \(20 par kg) often has impurities. These impurities melt unevenly, leaving tiny bumps. Upgrading to mid-range PLA (\)25–$30 per kg) can instantly improve surface smoothness.
2. Optimize Print Settings to Eliminate Roughness
Even the best filament will produce a bad print if your settings are off. Two critical settings—vitesse d'impression et hauteur de couche—are the main culprits behind uneven surfaces. Let’s break down how to adjust them:
2.1 Slow Down Print Speed (Le #1 Fix for Bumps)
Printing too fast (over 60mm/s for most filaments) causes the printer’s nozzle to move before the plastic fully melts and adheres. This leads to:
- Layer separation (visible lines between layers)
- Corde (brins en plastique minces entre pièces)
- Blobby surfaces
Solution: Use this speed guide based on filament type:
| Filament | Recommended Speed Range | Result of Following This Guide |
| PLA | 40–50 mm / s | 50% surface plus lisse; less stringing |
| Abs | 35–45mm/s | Reduced warping; even layer adhesion |
| Pivot | 30–40 mm / s | Pas de bulles; finition brillante |
2.2 Lower Layer Height for Fine Details
Layer height is the thickness of each plastic layer the printer deposits. A large layer height (over 0.2mm) makes layers visible—like stacking thin pancakes with gaps. A small layer height (0.1–0,15 mm) creates a seamless surface.
Exemple: If you’re printing a figurine (where smoothness matters), set layer height to 0.12mm. For a simple storage bin (where function matters more), 0.2mm is okay. The tradeoff? Smaller layer heights add ~10–20% to print time—but the smoothness is worth it.
3. Post-traitement: Turn Good Prints Into Great Ones
Even with perfect materials and settings, some prints need a final touch to be fully smooth. Ci-dessous sont 3 easy post-treatment methods—ranked by effort and results:
3.1 Ponçage (Most Accessible Method)
Sanding is the simplest way to smooth rough surfaces. Suivez ces étapes:
- Commencer par 120-papier de verre de grain to remove large bumps (Par exemple, lignes).
- Passer à 240-papier de verre de grain to refine the surface (reduces scratches from 120-grit).
- Terminer 400-papier de verre de grain for a near-mirror finish (great for decorative parts).
Pour la pointe: Sable en mouvements circulaires, and use water (wet sanding) for PLA/PETG—it reduces dust and makes the surface smoother.
3.2 Polissage (For a Glossy Look)
Après le ponçage, polishing adds shine. For PLA/ABS/PETG:
- Utiliser un plastic polish (Par exemple, Novus Polish) or even toothpaste (non-gel, blanc).
- Apply a small amount to a microfiber cloth and rub in circular motions for 2–3 minutes.
- Wipe off excess polish—you’ll see a glossy, surface lisse.
3.3 Peinture (Covers Imperfections)
If sanding/polishing isn’t enough, painting hides small flaws. Utilisez ces étapes:
- Clean the print with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust.
- Appliquer un apprêt (Par exemple, Krylon Fusion for Plastic)—primer fills tiny gaps and helps paint stick.
- Paint with acrylic or spray paint (2–3 thin coats, pas 1 thick coat—thick paint drips).
Perspective de la technologie Yigu
À la technologie Yigu, we often hear users say “my 3D print isn’t smooth”—and 90% du temps, the issue is a mix of material choice and speed. Our printers come with pre-set “smooth mode” profiles for PLA/ABS/PETG, which adjust speed (40–50 mm / s) et hauteur de couche (0.15MM) automatically. We also recommend starting with ABS or PETG for functional parts—their higher melting points create more consistent layers than PLA. Souviens-toi: smooth printing isn’t about expensive tools—it’s about matching materials, paramètres, and post-treatment to your project.
FAQ
- Q: My ABS print has a smooth surface but warps—how do I fix both?
UN: Gauchissement (relevage des bords) happens because ABS cools too fast. Print in an enclosed printer (Piche la chaleur) and set the bed temperature to 100–110°C. This keeps the print flat et maintains surface smoothness.
- Q: Can I get a smooth surface without sanding?
UN: Oui! Use a “layer adhesion” setting in your slicer (Par exemple, Cura’s “Wall Line Count”)—increasing wall lines (depuis 2 à 4) makes the outer surface denser and smoother, Aucun ponçage nécessaire.
- Q: Why does my PETG print have tiny bubbles on the surface?
UN: PETG absorbs moisture from the air. Dry the filament in a filament dryer (40–50°C for 4–6 hours) before printing—this removes moisture and eliminates bubbles.