Nothing is more frustrating than finishing a 3D print—only to find its surface bumpy, en capas, or uneven. Whether you’re making a prototype, a decorative piece, or a functional part, smoothness matters for both look and performance. Las buenas noticias? Most surface issues aren’t hard to fix. This article breaks down 3 core solutions (selección de material, configuración de impresión, post-tratamiento) to turn rough prints into smooth, Resultados profesionales.
1. Choose Materials That Boost Surface Smoothness
The right filament is the foundation of a smooth print. Using materials ill-suited for your project often leads to grainy or uneven surfaces. Below is a comparison of 3 common filaments—focused on their surface quality and ease of use:
| Tipo de filamento | Suavidad de la superficie (1=Rough, 5=Smooth) | Mejor para | Key Tip for Smoothness |
| Estampado | 3–4 | Prototipos, juguetes, piezas decorativas | Use high-quality PLA (avoid cheap brands) to reduce stringing. |
| Abdominales | 4–5 | Partes funcionales (P.EJ., fundas telefónicas) | Print in an enclosed printer to prevent warping (warping causes uneven surfaces). |
| Petg | 4–5 | Piezas duraderas (P.EJ., botellas de agua) | Dry the filament first—moisture causes bubbles on the surface. |
Common Question: Why does my PLA print still look rough?
PLA is easy to print, but low-quality PLA (bajo \(20 por kg) often has impurities. These impurities melt unevenly, leaving tiny bumps. Upgrading to mid-range PLA (\)25–$30 per kg) can instantly improve surface smoothness.
2. Optimize Print Settings to Eliminate Roughness
Even the best filament will produce a bad print if your settings are off. Two critical settings—velocidad de impresión y altura de la capa—are the main culprits behind uneven surfaces. Let’s break down how to adjust them:
2.1 Slow Down Print Speed (El #1 Fix for Bumps)
Printing too fast (over 60mm/s for most filaments) causes the printer’s nozzle to move before the plastic fully melts and adheres. This leads to:
- Layer separation (visible lines between layers)
- Enrollado (hilos de plástico delgados entre piezas)
- Blobby surfaces
Solución: Use this speed guide based on filament type:
| Filamento | Recommended Speed Range | Result of Following This Guide |
| Estampado | 40–50 mm/s | 50% superficie más suave; less stringing |
| Abdominales | 35–45mm/s | Reduced warping; even layer adhesion |
| Petg | 30–40mm/s | No hay burbujas; acabado brillante |
2.2 Lower Layer Height for Fine Details
Layer height is the thickness of each plastic layer the printer deposits. A large layer height (over 0.2mm) makes layers visible—like stacking thin pancakes with gaps. A small layer height (0.1–0.15 mm) creates a seamless surface.
Ejemplo: If you’re printing a figurine (where smoothness matters), set layer height to 0.12mm. For a simple storage bin (where function matters more), 0.2mm is okay. The tradeoff? Smaller layer heights add ~10–20% to print time—but the smoothness is worth it.
3. Post-tratamiento: Turn Good Prints Into Great Ones
Even with perfect materials and settings, some prints need a final touch to be fully smooth. A continuación son 3 easy post-treatment methods—ranked by effort and results:
3.1 Lijado (Most Accessible Method)
Sanding is the simplest way to smooth rough surfaces. Sigue estos pasos:
- Comenzar con 120-papel de lija to remove large bumps (P.EJ., líneas de capa).
- Convidar a 240-papel de lija to refine the surface (reduces scratches from 120-grit).
- Terminar con 400-papel de lija for a near-mirror finish (great for decorative parts).
Para la punta: Arena en movimientos circulares, and use water (wet sanding) for PLA/PETG—it reduces dust and makes the surface smoother.
3.2 Pulido (For a Glossy Look)
Después de lijar, polishing adds shine. For PLA/ABS/PETG:
- Usar un plastic polish (P.EJ., Novus polaco) or even toothpaste (non-gel, blanco).
- Apply a small amount to a microfiber cloth and rub in circular motions for 2–3 minutes.
- Wipe off excess polish—you’ll see a glossy, superficie lisa.
3.3 Cuadro (Covers Imperfections)
If sanding/polishing isn’t enough, painting hides small flaws. Usa estos pasos:
- Clean the print with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust.
- Aplicar un cebador (P.EJ., Krylon Fusion for Plastic)—primer fills tiny gaps and helps paint stick.
- Paint with acrylic or spray paint (2–3 thin coats, no 1 thick coat—thick paint drips).
La perspectiva de la tecnología de Yigu
En la tecnología yigu, we often hear users say “my 3D print isn’t smooth”—and 90% del tiempo, the issue is a mix of material choice and speed. Our printers come with pre-set “smooth mode” profiles for PLA/ABS/PETG, which adjust speed (40–50 mm/s) and layer height (0.15milímetros) automatically. We also recommend starting with ABS or PETG for functional parts—their higher melting points create more consistent layers than PLA. Recordar: smooth printing isn’t about expensive tools—it’s about matching materials, ajustes, and post-treatment to your project.
Preguntas frecuentes
- q: My ABS print has a smooth surface but warps—how do I fix both?
A: Pandeo (levantamiento de bordes) happens because ABS cools too fast. Print in an enclosed printer (trampa calor) and set the bed temperature to 100–110°C. This keeps the print flat y maintains surface smoothness.
- q: Can I get a smooth surface without sanding?
A: Sí! Use a “layer adhesion” setting in your slicer (P.EJ., Cura’s “Wall Line Count”)—increasing wall lines (de 2 a 4) makes the outer surface denser and smoother, No se necesita lijado.
- q: Why does my PETG print have tiny bubbles on the surface?
A: PETG absorbs moisture from the air. Dry the filament in a filament dryer (40–50°C for 4–6 hours) before printing—this removes moisture and eliminates bubbles.