Para Gundam enthusiasts, building and customizing models is more than a hobby—it’s a way to express creativity and love for the iconic franchise. But traditional Gundam kits (called Gunpla) often limit customization: you’re stuck with pre-made parts, fixed colors, and standard designs. Ahí es donde 3D printing Gundam model technology comes in. It lets you create one-of-a-kind parts, tweak details to your liking, and even design entirely original Gundam models from scratch. Whether you’re a beginner looking to modify your first kit or an advanced builder aiming for a unique display piece, this guide will walk you through every step of 3D printing a Gundam model—with real examples and data to help you avoid common mistakes.
1. The 3D Printing Gundam Model Process: Desglose paso a paso
3D printing a Gundam model isn’t just “press print”—it involves careful planning, setup, and post-processing to get professional results. Below is a detailed breakdown of each stage, with tips to make your project a success.
Paso 1: Design Phase – Get or Create Your 3D Model File
The first step is to get a 3D design file (usually in STL format) of the Gundam parts you want to print. You have three main options:
- Use ready-made files: Websites like Thingiverse or Cults3D have thousands of free/paid Gundam STL files—from replacement arms to full custom suits.
- Scan existing models: If you want to modify a traditional Gunpla part (P.EJ., make a sword longer), use a 3D scanner to capture its shape and edit it in CAD software.
- Design from scratch: Use CAD tools like Fusion 360 or Blender to create original parts. This is great for advanced builders who want a unique Gundam (P.EJ., a custom color scheme or new weapon).
Paso 2: Prepare for Printing – Optimize Settings in Slicing Software
Once you have your STL file, import it into software de corte (P.EJ., Tratamiento, Prusaslicer). This software converts the 3D model into layers that the printer can understand. Here are the key settings to adjust:
- Layer height: Para detalles finos (like Gundam armor panels), use 0.1–0.15mm. Para piezas más grandes (like legs), 0.2mm works well.
- Estructuras de soporte: Agregar soportes para voladizos (P.EJ., a Gundam’s shoulder pads). Choose “tree supports” to reduce material use and make removal easier.
- Relleno: Use 15–20% infill for decorative parts (no structural need) and 30–40% for parts that need strength (P.EJ., articulaciones).
Paso 3: Choose the Right Material for Your Gundam Model
Not all 3D printing materials are equal—some work better for Gundam models than others. A continuación se muestra una comparación de las opciones más populares.:
Material | Pros | Contras | Mejor para | Costo por kg |
Estampado (Ácido poliláctico) | Easy to print (No se necesita cama con calefacción), bajo costo, comes in bright colors | Brittle (breaks easily if dropped), not heat-resistant | Para principiantes, piezas decorativas (armor, arma) | \(20- )30 |
Abdominales (Acrilonitrilo butadieno estireno) | Más fuerte que PLA, a prueba de calor, easy to sand/paint | Needs heated bed (60–100 ° C), emite humos (needs ventilation) | Advanced builders, partes estructurales (articulaciones, marcos) | \(30- )40 |
Petg (Glicol de tereftalato de polietileno) | Balances strength and ease of printing, resistente al agua | Slightly more expensive than PLA, sticks to beds tightly | Mid-level builders, parts needing durability (hands, pies) | \(25- )35 |
Paso 4: Start Printing – Monitor for Success
Load your chosen material into the 3D printer and start the print. A few tips to avoid failures:
- Level the bed: If the bed is uneven, parts will stick poorly or warp.
- Check the first layer: The first layer should be smooth and adhere firmly to the bed—if it’s patchy, stop and adjust the bed height.
- Don’t leave it unattended: Para impresiones largas (4+ horas), check every hour to make sure the material isn’t jammed.
Print time varies based on size and complexity. Una pequeña parte (P.EJ., a Gundam’s head, ~5cm tall) Toma 2 a 4 horas, while a full model (15cm de alto) puede tomar de 12 a 24 horas.
Paso 5: Post-Processing – Turn Raw Prints into Polished Parts
Post-processing is what makes your 3D printed Gundam look professional. Esto es lo que debe hacer:
- Remove supports: Use pliers or a hobby knife to carefully peel off support structures. Para piezas pequeñas, Use papel de lija (400 arena) para suavizar las calificaciones sobrantes.
- Sand the surface: Start with 200-grit sandpaper for rough areas, then move to 400-grit and 800-grit for a smooth finish. This removes layer lines.
- Armar: Glue parts together with plastic cement (para PLA/ABS) o Super Glue (for PETG). Make sure joints fit tightly—if they’re loose, add a small piece of tape inside.
- Color: Use spray paint or acrylic paint to add details. For a professional look, apply a primer first (it helps paint stick better).
Paso 6: Display and Enjoy Your Custom Gundam
Once finished, your 3D printed Gundam is ready to show off! Use a display stand to highlight dynamic poses, or take photos for social media. Many enthusiasts even use their 3D printed models in stop-motion videos or cosplay props.
2. Ejemplo del mundo real: How a Gundam Enthusiast Built a Custom Zaku II
Takashi, a hobbyist from Tokyo, wanted to build a custom Zaku II (a popular Gundam mobile suit) with a unique “night combat” color scheme and a longer rifle. Here’s how 3D printing helped him:
- Diseño: He downloaded a basic Zaku II STL file from Thingiverse, then used Blender to modify the rifle (lengthening it by 3cm) and add small armor details (like extra vents).
- Material: He chose PLA in matte black and dark green (costo: $25 total for 2 rolls).
- Impresión: He printed 12 parts over 3 días (total print time: 32 horas) using a budget Ender 3 printer.
- Postprocesamiento: He sanded all parts, painted them with matte black primer, and added green accents with acrylic paint. He also added LED lights to the eyes for a “glowing” effect.
El resultado? A one-of-a-kind Zaku II that Takashi displayed at a local Gundam expo—he even received requests from other enthusiasts to share his STL file. “Before 3D printing, I could only modify existing kits with paint,” he said. “Now I can create parts no one else has.”
3. Common Challenges in 3D Printing Gundam Models (y como arreglarlos)
Even experienced builders face issues—here are the top problems and solutions:
- Warped parts: This happens when the material cools too quickly. Fix it by using a heated bed (para abds/petg) or covering the printer with a draft shield.
- Layer lines showing: Sand the part with higher-grit sandpaper (800–1200 arena) or apply a layer of filler primer before painting.
- Supports sticking too tightly: Use “water-soluble supports” (if your printer can handle them) or apply a small amount of Vaseline to the model before printing supports.
Yigu Technology’s View on 3D Printing Gundam Models
En la tecnología yigu, creemos 3D printing has revolutionized the Gundam hobby by putting creativity in the hands of enthusiasts. We’ve worked with hobby shops to provide affordable 3D printers (like our entry-level YG-100 model) optimized for small parts—perfect for Gundam builds. What we love most is seeing how enthusiasts use our technology to push boundaries: from custom mobile suits to scaled-down dioramas. 3D printing doesn’t just make building easier; it turns hobbyists into designers. We recommend beginners start with PLA and simple parts (like weapons) to learn the process, then move to more complex projects. As 3D printing becomes more accessible, we expect to see even more amazing custom Gundam models in the future.
Preguntas frecuentes:
Q1: Do I need expensive 3D printers to make Gundam models?
No—you can start with a budget 3D printer (\(200- )300, como el ender de la crealidad 3 or Anycubic Kobra Go). These printers handle PLA well and can print small Gundam parts with good detail. Solo necesitas una impresora de alta gama ($1,000+) if you want to print with resin (for ultra-fine details) or large models.
Q2: Can I 3D print replacement parts for broken traditional Gunpla kits?
Sí! If a part of your traditional Gunpla breaks (P.EJ., a missing hand), you can scan the other hand (or find a matching STL file online) and print a replacement. This is cheaper than buying a whole new kit—replacement parts cost just \(1- )5 in material.
Q3: Is it legal to sell 3D printed Gundam models?
It depends on the design. If you use a free STL file that allows commercial use (check the license on sites like Thingiverse), you can sell the printed model. But if you use a design based on copyrighted Gundam characters (P.EJ., a full Zaku II), selling it may violate copyright laws. Stick to selling custom, original designs (P.EJ., a “unique mobile suit inspired by Gundam”) to avoid issues.