Post-Processing for 3D Printing: A Complete Guide to Perfecting Your Prints

You’ve spent hours 3D Druck a part—only to find it covered in support marks, Ebenenleitungen, oder grobe Kanten. Sound familiar? Post-processing for 3D printing is the missing step that turns “good” prints into “professional-grade” ones. Whether you’re making a PLA figurine, an ABS prototype, or a resin model, the right post-processing techniques fix flaws, boost durability, and elevate the final look. This guide breaks down every key method, solves common issues, and helps you choose the best approach for your project.

1. Why Post-Processing for 3D Printing Matters

Stellen Sie sich den 3D-Druck wie das Backen eines Kuchens vor: Der Drucker „backt“ die Basis, aber die Nachbearbeitung ist der Zuckerguss, Dekoration, und der letzte Schliff, der es servierfertig macht. Ohne es, Selbst der am besten gestaltete Druck wird es haben:

• Unterstützungsmarken: Hässliche Vertiefungen oder raue Stellen an den Befestigungsstellen der Stützen (häufig bei FDM- und Harzdrucken).
• Layer-Linien: Visible ridges between printed layers (especially noticeable in PLA and ABS parts).
• Dimensional Imperfections: Small gaps or uneven edges that make the part unusable for tight-fit projects (Z.B., a 3D-printed gear that won’t mesh with others).

Zum Beispiel, a 3D-printed PLA phone case straight from the printer might have rough edges that scratch your hand. A quick sanding and polishing (Nachbearbeitungsschritte) turn it into a smooth, sleek accessory—ready for daily use.

2. 8 Essential Post-Processing Techniques for 3D Prints

Below are the most common post-processing methods, organized by goal (Z.B., removing supports, smoothing surfaces). Each includes step-by-step instructions and pro tips to avoid mistakes.

Technik 1: Unterstützungsentfernung (Fixing Support Marks)

Supports are necessary for overhanging parts (Z.B., a figurine’s outstretched arm), but they leave marks if not removed properly. Es gibt zwei Hauptmethoden:

Technik 2: Schleifen & Polieren (Smoothing Layer Lines)

Sanding removes layer lines and support marks, while polishing makes the surface shiny. Follow this linear workflow for best results:

1. Start with Low-Grit Sandpaper: Use 120–240 grit sandpaper to remove large layer lines or rough spots. Sand in circular motions—avoid focusing on one area too long (this can melt PLA or create uneven surfaces).
2. Move to High-Grit Sandpaper: Switch to 400–800 grit to smooth the surface further. For resin prints, use 1000–2000 grit for a near-mirror finish.
3. Polish the Print:

• Für pla: Apply a small amount of acrylic glue to a soft cloth and rub the surface in circular motions. The glue slightly melts PLA, filling in tiny grooves—stop after 1–2 minutes to avoid losing dimensional accuracy.
• Für abs: Use acetone vapor (see Technique 3) für einen glatten, glänzend.

Für die Spitze: Wet-sand with water (use waterproof sandpaper) to reduce dust and make sanding smoother—this works especially well for PLA prints.

Technik 3: Oberflächenglättung (Für abs & Resin Prints)

ABS and resin prints benefit from extra smoothing to eliminate even the finest layer lines. The most effective method for ABS is acetone vapor smoothing:

1. Prepare a Container: Pour 1–2 cm of acetone into a large, Luftdichtes Behälter (Z.B., a mason jar).
2. Elevate the Print: Place the ABS print on a platform (Z.B., a small jar lid) inside the container—make sure it doesn’t touch the acetone.
3. Seal & Warten: Close the container and let the print sit for 5–15 minutes. The acetone vapor melts the outer layer of ABS, smoothing layer lines.
4. Entfernen & Trocken: Take the print out and let it air-dry for 30 minutes—avoid touching it while wet (acetone is flammable and can irritate skin).

Warnung: Work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves—acetone fumes are harmful if inhaled.

Technik 4: Bindung (Joining Multiple Print Parts)

If your design is too large for one print (Z.B., a life-size Gundam model), use bonding to connect pieces. Choose the right adhesive for your material:

Technik 5: Füllung (Fixing Gaps & Risse)

Small gaps (Z.B., between bonded parts) or cracks can ruin a print’s look and strength. Verwenden filling materials sie reparieren:

1. Choose a Filler:

• Atomic Ash/AB Soil: Best for ABS or metal prints—mix the two components (per the package instructions) and apply to gaps with a putty knife.
• Water-Based Filler: Ideal for PLA—non-toxic and easy to sand.

2. Apply the Filler: Fill the gap slightly above the surface (it will shrink as it dries).
3. Sand After Drying: Once dry (1–2 hours for water-based filler, 4–6 hours for atomic ash), sand with 400-grit sandpaper until smooth.

Technik 6: Färbung (Farbe hinzufügen & Personality)

Coloring turns plain prints into eye-catching pieces. The two most popular methods are:

• Airbrush Coloring:

1. Thin oil-based paint with a solvent (per the paint’s instructions).
2. Spray in a well-ventilated area (use a mask!) with light, even coats—let each coat dry for 15–30 minutes.
3. Add details (Z.B., Streifen) with a small brush once the base coat is dry.

Am besten für: Large prints (Z.B., a 3D-printed prop sword) or prints with complex shapes.

• Hand Painting:

1. Use acrylic paint and small brushes (size 0–3 for details).
2. Start with a base coat—let it dry completely (1 Stunde) before adding layers.
3. Use a dry brush for texture (Z.B., a “weathered” look on a model car).

Am besten für: Small prints (Z.B., resin figurines) or detailed work (Z.B., facial features).

Technik 7: Sprühmalerei (Professional-Grade Finish)

Spray painting is faster than hand painting and gives a smooth, even coat. Befolgen Sie diese Schritte:

1. Prep the Print: Sand with 400–800 grit sandpaper and clean with isopropyl alcohol (removes dust and oil).
2. Primer anwenden: Spray a thin coat of primer (choose a color that matches your top coat—e.g., white primer for light colors). Lass es trocken für 1 Stunde.
3. Spray Top Coat: Hold the can 20–30 cm from the print and spray in sweeping motions. 2–3 dünne Mäntel auftragen (let each dry 30 Minuten) anstelle eines dicken Mantels (avoids drips).
4. Seal (Optional): Add a clear coat (matt oder glänzend) to protect the paint from scratches.

Technik 8: Silikonformung & Vakuumbildung (Mass-Producing Prints)

If you need multiple copies of a print (Z.B., 50 custom keychains), use these advanced methods:

• Silikonformung:

1. Make a mold box around your 3D print (use cardboard or 3D-printed plastic).
2. Mix silicone rubber (per instructions) and pour it into the box—cover the print completely.
3. Lassen Sie das Silikon heilen (6–24 Stunden), then remove the print. The mold is ready to cast resin or plastic copies.

• Vakuumbildung:

1. Strengthen your 3D print (increase wall thickness to 3–5mm in slicing software) to withstand vacuum pressure.
2. Heat a plastic sheet (Z.B., Petg) with an industrial vacuum forming machine until it’s soft.
3. Use vacuum pressure to press the plastic sheet onto the 3D print—let it cool, then remove the mold.

Am besten für: Making plastic containers or simple parts (Z.B., Spielzeugschalen).

3. How to Choose the Right Post-Processing Techniques

With so many methods, how do you pick the right ones? Use this 3-step checklist:

1. What’s Your Material?

• PLA: Focus on sanding, acrylic glue polishing, and water-based filling (avoid acetone—it melts PLA).
• ABS: Use acetone vapor smoothing, atomic ash filling, and acrylic adhesive bonding.
• Harz: Prioritize water-soluble supports, fine sanding (1000+ Streugut), and hand painting.

2. What’s Your Goal?

• Fix flaws: Use support removal, Füllung, and sanding.
• Boost appearance: Add coloring, spray painting, oder polieren.
• Mass-produce: Choose silicone molding or vacuum forming.

3. What’s Your Skill Level?

• Anfänger: Start with manual support removal, Schleifen, and hand painting (Keine besonderen Ausrüstung benötigt).
• Fortschrittlich: Try acetone smoothing, Silikonformung, or vacuum forming (requires more tools and practice).

4. Yigu Technology’s Perspective on Post-Processing for 3D Printing

Bei Yigu Technology, we see post-processing as the “secret sauce” that makes 3D prints market-ready. Der größte Fehler, den wir sehen? Skipping sanding or using the wrong grit—many hobbyists jump to painting with rough surfaces, leading to uneven color and peeling.

Our pro tip: For clients printing functional parts (Z.B., automotive prototypes), we recommend a “sand-polish-bond” workflow—this ensures parts are smooth, stark, and fit perfectly. We also help industrial clients scale post-processing: Zum Beispiel, a toy manufacturer now uses our automated sanding machines to finish 1,000+ PLA toys daily (Arbeitszeit abschneiden durch 70%). As 3D printing materials evolve, we’re testing new post-processing methods—like UV curing for resin prints—to make the process faster and more accessible.

FAQ: Antworten auf Ihre wichtigsten Fragen zur Nachbearbeitung für den 3D-Druck

Q1: Kann ich die Nachbearbeitung für PLA-Drucke überspringen??

A1: It depends on your use case. If you’re making a rough prototype (Z.B., a test fit for a part), you can skip it. But for functional or decorative prints (Z.B., a phone case or figurine), Nachbearbeitung (at minimum, Schleifen) is needed to remove sharp edges and layer lines—otherwise, the print will look unprofessional and may not work as intended.

Q2: Wie lange dauert die Nachbearbeitung eines kleinen PLA-Drucks? (Z.B., eine 5 cm Figur)?

A2: For a beginner, it takes 1–2 hours: 30 minutes for manual support removal, 45 minutes for sanding (120–800 Grit), Und 15 minutes for hand painting. Advanced users can cut this to 45 minutes with faster tools (Z.B., an electric sander).

Q3: Ist Aceton zum Glätten von ABS sicher zu verwenden??

A3: It’s safe if used correctly. Always work in a well-ventilated area (open windows or use a fume hood) and wear nitrile gloves (acetone irritates skin). Never pour acetone directly on the print (use vapor instead)—this avoids melting the part too much. Keep acetone away from heat sources (it’s flammable).